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When does ageing begin? Both intrinsic and extrinsic processes

by Staff Bona
Picture: Sourced

Skin ageing is a complex process influenced by both intrinsic (chronological) and extrinsic (environmental) factors.

Intrinsic ageing involves the natural – however only contributes up to 20% of your skin ageing. This ageing is an inevitable decline in skin function and structure over time; skin ageing begins as soon as you are born. Collagen production decreases by approximately 1% per year starting from your mid-20s, and this decline, while initially invisible, sets the stage for future wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and thinning of the skin.

Extrinsic ageing, on the other hand, is primarily driven by UV radiation, pollution, smoking, and lifestyle habits, and it accelerates the damage caused by intrinsic factors. For both men and women, adopting a preventative skincare routine in the mid-twenties is ideal, as delaying intervention until later decades may mean more damage has occurred, requiring more intensive and possibly costly treatment.

Why early action is critical

The early signs of ageing can be subtle but are important indicators of what’s to come. Fine lines, particularly around the eyes (crow’s feet), and dynamic expression lines on the forehead may begin to appear.

These are often followed by uneven skin tone, dullness due to reduced cell turnover, and early pigmentation such as sunspots. Over time, skin may lose firmness, leading to sagging in areas like the jawline and cheeks. Dehydration, visible pores, and crepey texture, especially in sun-exposed zones are additional warning signs.

While these signs progress naturally, they appear more rapidly and severely in individuals who do not protect their skin or engage in proper skincare. Statistically, research shows that in people aged 51 to 98, wrinkle area significantly increases with age and is markedly worsened by smoking, by 30.9% in women compared to non-smokers, according to a recent study.

Key ingredients and scientific evidence

Scientifically backed ingredients can dramatically slow or even partially reverse the visible effects of skin ageing. Retinoids, including retinol and retinoic acid, are among the most extensively studied anti-ageing agents.

Retinoids work by accelerating cell turnover and gradually boosting collagen production, a process that can take up to 10 months with prescription-strength versions. Lamelle Research Laboratories focuses on removing aged and damaged tissue (known as elastosis), which helps prepare the skin for faster-acting, more powerful collagen stimulators like growth factors and vitamin C.

Picture: Supplied

Another powerhouse category includes antioxidants, most notably vitamin C and vitamin E which neutralise free radicals and help preserve collagen. Recharge CE and Vita C 30 are products containing powerful antioxidants essential for collagen production, helping restore ageing skin to near-newborn cellular activity. With potent L-ascorbic acid and alpha-tocopherol, they boost absorption, protect against oxidative stress, and visibly brighten pigmentation.

Lamelle also leverages stem cell biotechnology in its RFM range, utilising stem cell conditioning media (SCCM) derived from adipose tissue. This one-of-a-kind regenerative technology is rich in cytokines and growth factors that promote collagen synthesis, repair UV damage, and improve overall skin texture and tone. Notably, clinical data from Lamelle shows visible improvements in elasticity, wrinkle depth, and luminosity within 28 days of regular use. Peptides and recombinant growth factors, further enhance skin resilience by supporting dermal matrix rebuilding and reducing inflammation.

Sun protection remains the cornerstone of any anti-ageing regimen. UV radiation, heat and visible light from the sun, are the greatest external contributors to premature skin ageing, breaking down collagen, increasing pigmentation, and generating DNA-damaging free radicals. According to Karen Bester, Medical Training Manager at Lamelle Research Laboratories, “Prevention is better than cure. If you start with robust protection, daily broad-spectrum UV defence, antioxidants, and gentle yet effective actives, you limit DNA, collagen, and elastic fibre damage early on. Once you have deep wrinkles, volume loss and structural skin changes, no topical treatment alone can fully reverse them.”

Contrasts in ageing visible

The results of prevention are clearly illustrated in celebrity examples. Jennifer Lopez, born in 1969, is frequently praised for her youthful appearance well into her 50s, which she attributes to consistent use of sun protection, antioxidants, and a no-smoking lifestyle.

Similarly, Halle Berry maintains radiant skin through antioxidant-rich diets, hydration, and a strong skincare regimen. Conversely, celebrities who have admitted to years of sun exposure or neglect often exhibit advanced photo ageing (deep wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and sagging).

Gender differences in ageing

 While men generally experience later onset of fine lines due to their thicker dermis and higher initial collagen density, they are not immune. In fact, when wrinkles do develop in men, they are often deeper and more pronounced.

Women, particularly post-menopause, face accelerated ageing due to a sharp decline in estrogen, leading to rapid collagen loss, thinning skin, and increased sagging and dry skin.

From a practical standpoint, individuals in their mid-20s should start with daily sun protection, hydration, and mild antioxidants. As they approach their 30s and 40s, the addition of retinoids, peptides, and pigment-correcting agents is recommended.

After 50, skincare should prioritise regeneration through growth factors, stem cell extracts, retinoids, and DNA repair enzymes. Lamelle’s advanced evidence-based formulations can delay visible ageing, preserve skin integrity, and minimise the need for invasive procedures later.

Also see: Fibre and ageing: why it matters for your health

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